How to Construct a Fretless Bass

Construct a Fretless Bass Honestly, I can not think of a simpler and more pleasurable project than creating a fretless bass, and trust me once I tell you, it is simpler than you think! When there’s 1 thing I’ve learned through the past few years about constructing my own fretless basses is that as soon as you take the duty of creating your own ax, you eventually become a master of your sound.

Instrument, Bass, Double Bass, Music

Construct a Fretless Bass Review

If your bass sounds and performs sounds or well and plays crappy it’s going to be since you took the opportunity to set the parts together and experimentation in double bass setups. The most effective preliminary step to creating would be to visit one or more local audio shops and play basses.

Be aware of what you enjoy and what you do not like about the noise, look, and arrangement of the basses, that way when you’re prepared to drop some money in your own components you will understand what to purchase. Another thing to remember is that in case you use crappy components you’ll find a crappy noise.

We’ll begin with the entire body. In this tutorial we’ll use a simple two piece Alder body, but just like I stated earlier, your preferences and budget may be the judge on which tone forests or combination you want. This guarantees a smooth texture, even grain and uniform appearance on the timber. .

The concept is to make everything uniform particularly for the texture and feel of the timber. Sanding enables the stain or finish to penetrate the timber in the way possible!

I truly like this step of this procedure only because you are able to produce your device look anyway you’d like. There are lots of alternatives available to you from the are of paints and stains. Out of all of the stains I have used water based permits for the simplest application and tidy up, and of course its environmentally friendly.

An easy coat or 2 of the blot can yield beauty and luster, based on the type of wood you use to your own bass. A trip to the neighborhood hardware shop can get you started and there’s a vast assortment of shades and blends to select from!

Another thing to remember is that you may want to decide on the Tru-Oilâ„¢ complete by itself, particularly in case you’ve got a wonderful grain of timber. A very simple picture look of Tung Oil or Tru-Oil completed tools will yield many amazing results. Please research and experiment.

After I picked a shade I coated the entire body with MinWax Pre-Stain. This naturally-occurring chemical fills from the pours of irregular hard forests and enables a more uniform and also blot across the entire body. Please be sure to always follow the instructions on the can for the best results! After drying I began to stain the entire body.

Again, I can’t stress how important it’s to operate in a secure and well ventilated place. While it perhaps temping to perform this at a more comfortable place, you do not wish to expose yourself to fumes and also endure the negative effects! I wrapped and finished the entire body in my flat patio cupboard that was ideal for shelter and venting.

But it is going to require the exact same reduced to high sanding procedure, and if your not careful it that the sanding may erode curves and angles.

After getting the colour right where I enjoy it, it is time to seal your system using a finish. Like mentioned earlier we will use a very simple but powerful gun stock finish named Tru-Oil. To cut back on stains and fingerprints locate an old cable hanger or shoelace and hang up the body at any eye level.

Simply take a classic rag pour a little bit of complete and lightly rub the end in tiny circles, making sure to spread the exact quantity of finish so far as possible (a little goes a very long way). After each coating, allow to dry for approximately one hour and buff gently (as to not get rid of preceding coats) between coats).

I discovered approximately 10 to 15 coats is enough to create a wonderful luster and supply a wonderful hard surface, but moving to approximately 20 to 25 will probably be more than sufficient. Give approximately 24 to 48 hours to fully fix the end.

When the body is completed, drill holes (if necessary ) and build your system with hardware and electronics. I find after decades of soldering iron burns off and melted cables, in addition to a visit or two into the hospital out of solder fumes, so the exact same well-vented area is necessary for addition to pre-assembling of these strands to the controller plate be performed outdoors and separate from your bass itself.

You need everything to be complete and attached that way the one thing left to solder is going to be the floor cable and pickup cables. I would also suggest purchasing a Jazz Bass electronics kit.

All of the parts individually would cost a whole lot longer, but for about 18 dollars you get all of them and directions, and trust me, wiring a jazz bass is really quite simple! I shall go into this in more detail from the electronics part of this site to help clear up things.

Another thing that I love to perform help) would be to the lineup each component of the interior of the bass with aluminum foil tape. This helps to make sure that if cables do come loose they’ll be grounded and protected. This also can help stop hums picked up from light and other digital devices ( lighting and specific electronics emit a 60 cycle hum that interferes with pickups and bass ). Now everything is sealed, grounded, and built its time to proceed to the throat.

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